Can i stain over stained wood

What is your advise? I already darkened my cabinets with espresso brown gel stain. I think they are a little too dark. Can I lighten them to a lighter color stain?

Hi Anna! Without sanding back some of the dark stain, a lighter look can not be achieved with lighter stain. If you were to dye it black and then apply say a light brown, the black is still going to dominate. I have the same problem. I prepped a set of dressers I believe are maple.. Some of the wood grabbed the stain more than other areas. The surface feels a bit rough. I was wondering if.

I used steel wool to smooththe surface before using a darker stain would help? These are Heywood Wakefield dressers and were constructed by piecing in the wood together to make this specific style of drawers. Sanding with grit should open up the grain a bit more. The finer the sanding media the harder to stain.

The grain can actually be sealed from staining by using too fIne of a sand paper or steel wool. I want the same color or even darker, so I just lightly sanded it. Well some areas of the sanding are lighter than others. After applying one coat of stain, those same spots are lighter. It seems like the stain just wipes off. I just sanded my golden oak kitchen cabinets and stained them using Minwax Dark Walnut mixed with Classic Gray mix. The grain is gorgeous but I feel there is just too much orange coming through.

I am going for a weathered rustic look, maybe a slight white wash. I do not want to re-sand them. Is there something else I can put on them prior to doing my polyurethane? I have looked at dry brushing and white washing, but do not want to much white. Hi Deb. A subtle wash or dry brush may do the trick. If there is a raised grain you could try a white glaze. A glaze is easy to control when wet so if you play around with it you might get just the right amount your happy with. You mentioned not staining over anything with a varnish.

Would I need to sand it first, then re stain? Or maybe use a watered down chalk paint? Hi Julie! Yes, if you stain directly over topcoat it will become tacky as in the example I used with the cherry headboard. Sanding would be the way to go to get a nice dark finish.

I ordered new kitchen cabinets they are the wrong color. I wanted dark brown but they are a Reddish brown I m push for time would you stain a hole kitchen or just return them all , because that is a lot of work Plus they will discount the cabinets for me.

Regina, sorry to hear that. Personally, I would return them. For the amount of time it would take to restain etc, and seeing as they are brand new, I would return and get the exact color you were hoping for. Denise, I bought a wood coffee table and the stain is messed up ; slightly bubbled on some areas and just scratched in others. It has a dk. If I lightly sand to scuff it up, can I apply Dk. Hi Jackie! If you start sanding even lightly those bubbles might get worse and may require a full sanding anyway.

Maybe try in an inconspicuous area and see how it reacts. Sorry, probably not the answer you were hoping for. I have read alot about staining or glazing over finished products.. I am wondering how it will hold up..

Hi Kimberly! Otherwise, the stain will sit on top of your topcoat and become tacky like it did with my headboard example. Funny, i had picked similar colors to yours, i strained Pecan first, it felt it was a bit light, got. I was looking for something that looks like pecan but more darker.

Your email address will not be published. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. If you are unsure on what to use contact them for more advice. Brush on the sealer using long brush strokes running in the same direction as the wood grain. Gently brush off any excess sealer using a dry brush to prevent any visible brush strokes from showing up.

Some sealers need to be wiped on so check with the manufacturer exactly how it should be applied. When the sanding sealer has dried fully, give the entire surface a light sand over using grit sandpaper. Check that you have not missed any spots. These will appear as shiny, glossy areas. Once you know what the existing finish is, it will then need to be prepared using the steps outlined above.

Once correctly prepared you can then apply your new stain. When applying your stain use a decent quality fine bristle brush and use fairly long strokes when applying the stain. Be careful not to overlap anywhere as this can cause the overlapping areas to appear darker and cause your finish to look stripy.

Ensure that you apply a decent amount of stain as you brush it on so that it really penetrates down into the timber. Once applied, to get the best streak-free finish possible, gently wipe over the applied stain using a clean cotton rag, wiping in the same direction that you applied the stain with the grain as this will then remove any streaking.

After wiping, run a dry brush over any fine detail areas to remove any excess stain buildup. Wipe the brush off using a clean rag. Repeat this process until you have covered one full side of your item and then leave to dry. Once dried, repeat for the other side. If the existing stain has soaked too far into the timber your working with, you may have to have a rethink about the route you want to take. If you are able to remove it using the information above, apply your new stain using a good quality brush, brushing the stain or dye on using long, sweeping strokes.

Once you have covered a smallish area, wipe it over using a clean, lint free cloth to remove any excess. This will give you a nice even stroke free finish. If you inadvertently wipe off too much stain or dye, simply brush on some more and then gently wipe off the excess until you match the surrounding colour tone.

Once fully dried both sides and you are happy with the overall finish and colour, depending on the type of stain or dye you have used, you may then need to seal it and then varnish over it to protect it. Applying a coat of varnish will protect the surface beneath it and prevent water and moisture damage as well as light impact damage.

In terms of what varnish to use, one point to be aware of is that not all types of varnish are compatible with all types of stain, dye or sealer. For example a shellac-based sealer should not be used with a polyurethane-based varnish. Make sure you check that the varnish you go with is compatible with the sealer and stain that you have used. Apply the varnish using long brush strokes, taking care not to overlap any edges.

Hope this helps! Hi, I just stumbled on your website as I have a house that I bought three years ago and needless it has been abused, used and put out wet as the saying goes. I am slowly but putting her back together. The original wood floors have had the old varnish on it and now it is wearing away. The varnish might have been light but with so many years it has aged to a dark color. I love the dark color because I grew up in a house in Texas and had hardwood dark floors.

I was wondering because the wood might be fragile if I can go over it with your product. I am thinking I will be covering living room and dining room roughly square feet and a tiny hall roughly 40 square feet.

I have done the front porch in a Espresso Bamboo planking. I was wondering if you have ever tried old OLD hardwood flooring without sanding. I could send pictures of what I am looking at. Also, I have old, old wooden doors that are in very sad shape an am wondering if you have done this and could give me some pointers. Thank you so much. Hi Charlotte, sounds like an exciting project!

Proper prep to make sure there are no loose bits is essential. Good luck! Our stairs take a lot of abuse and they still look the same as the day we finished the project! Thanks for the great question! We got our hallway and stairs finished and they look so beautiful.

Thanks for the tips and advice. We have pets and children, can we use this product now in February while doors and windows are closed? We just had new wood floors and stairs out in. Our veteran floor person issued white oak fir floors and landings and red oak fir the stairs.

The stain looks noticeably different on the stairs. Any thoughts on using this process on making the stairs match the floors? You would definitely need to test it out on some scrap pieces. So, two questions: If they do wear down a little can I just brush over so so and wipe it down and two do you suggest Fusions non-yellowing top coat. THanks for your advice!!

Our stairs still look the same as they did when we first refinished them. Do you think using a liquid sander would work before using that stain product?

Was thinking it would be easier for the railings.